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石青色彩云金龙纹妆花缎女夹褂
Category:
Textiles
Period:
Qing dynasty
  石青色云蟒妆花缎袷女褂,清雍正,身长142cm,两袖通长181cm,袖口宽26cm,下摆宽137cm,后裾长69cm。清宫旧藏。
  此褂圆领,对襟,平袖,裾后开。以地纹为石青色暗花勾莲纹的云蟒纹妆花缎为面,湖色云纹暗花绫为里。通身以妆花和织金技法织金蟒九条,其中前身行蟒四,后身正蟒一、行蟒二,两肩正蟒各一。另在两袖织团夔龙各一、行蟒各一。通身点缀五彩云蝠,下幅饰八宝平水纹和由亭台楼阁及松竹构成的地景纹。此褂织工细密精巧,色彩沉稳端重,纹样丰富流畅,具有雍正时期丝织物的时代特征。据《大清会典》的定制,这种前身饰四蟒、后身饰三蟒的石青色褂是皇孙福晋穿用的朝褂,穿于朝袍之外。这种纹样的朝褂在故宫博物院藏清代服饰中为数极为稀少,且做工精美,故弥足珍贵。
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