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石青色绸绣缉米珠云龙纹金板嵌宝石夹朝褂
Category:
Textiles
Period:
Qing dynasty
  石青色绸绣缉米珠云龙双喜字纹绵朝褂,清道光,身长139cm,肩宽40cm,下摆宽122cm,左右开裾长83cm。清宫旧藏。
  朝褂圆领,对襟,无袖,裾左右开,后背垂明黄绦饰珊瑚珍珠喜字纹背云。此朝褂在石青色绸地上以二至四色晕,兼用串米珠工艺和套针、平针、打籽、平金等针法缉绣彩云白龙双喜字蝙蝠及海水江崖等纹样。褂内衬红色四合如意云团龙寿字纹织金绸里,内薄施丝绵。襟缘饰石青色团龙杂宝纹织金缎,内缀金捶鍱折枝花嵌翡翠、红宝石金板,中间以珍珠、珊瑚排珠相连,缀铜鎏金錾花扣五。
  此为皇后礼服。朝褂打破了清代传统用缉线绣勾边的装饰手法,对龙身轮廓施以打籽绣加以表现,其层次厚重的质感增强了纹样的艺术表现力。此褂是清乾隆朝以外故宫现仅存的一件金板嵌宝石珠绣服饰,为清道光朝织造。
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